For the sauce:
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
1 tablespoon dark soy sauce (or another of light soy sauce)
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
1 teaspoon sambal oelek or other Asian hot chile paste
1/4 cup chicken broth (or water, plus another dash or two of soy)
For the pancakes:
1 3/4 cups (8 ounces) all-purpose flour
1 3/4 cups (6 ounces) unbleached cake flour
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons peanut, canola, or corn oil, plus more for frying pancakes
1 1/4 cups boiling water
Asian (toasted) sesame oil for brushing
1 1/2 cups chives or scallions, finely chopped
1. Make sauce first to let flavors marry. Mix all ingredients and let rest while you make the dough.
2. With a food processor or by hand, mix together flours and salt. Stir in 2 tablespoons oil, then, gradually, the boiling water. (You may need a few more drops water, but wait and see.) Once it comes together in a ball, knead by hand a few minutes, then let rest airtight for 30 minutes.
3. Roll the dough into a cylinder, and cut into 12 even-sized pieces. Roll each into a smooth ball. Cover with a moist towel or plastic wrap so they don’t dry out.
4. Roll one ball out thinly, brush with sesame oil, sprinkle liberally with chives, and roll up snugly in a cylinder. Coil the tube of filled dough in a spiral, keeping the seam to the inside. Press together a bit, and set aside, covered, while you fashion the rest.
5. Gently roll each pancake flat. They should be 4 or 5 inches in diameter and about 1/4-inch thick. (Light-handed rolling preserves all-important layering for the best texture.) Set up a couple large skillets or a griddle; heat 1/8 inch of oil over medium heat. (You can continue rolling as you fry.)
6. When the oil is hot, fry the pancakes (as many as you can at a time without crowding) until golden brown and crispy and cooked through — they should take about 3 minutes on the A side, and 2 minutes on the B side. Drain briefly on a rack or paper, cut in quarters, and serve hot with dipping sauce.